Highlights: Day Five

Where on Monday editrixes and entourage were in heels that would rival the height of Rupaul herself, Friday has brought the fashion pack back down to earth.
Feet so bloodied from walking in Kardashian proportion heels,  it is in fact impossible for them to wear anything but flats come the end of the week.
But what better way to humble the fashion crowd even more so than a showing by Australia's own fashion Haiku, Akira Isogowa.

Shown in the sweatbox White Box,  Isogowa took each model by hand and lead them over a petal strewn floor to their dais, putting the final touches on each look as he did. 
The collection had three main themes. Kimono prints, brights and white/bridal, each with Akira's signature simplistic yet opulent touch which could be swooned over in this intimate setting.

Viewers weren't just brushed with a stomping model but could instead breathe in the artistic integrity each gown was whispering through Isogawa's unique design Aesthetic. 
Details such as embroideries and beading weren't lost in a fleeting runway moment but instead savoured by the reinvigorated fashion crowd who lauded Akira's return to fashion week.

Another soft breeze of poetic greatness from Akira.

Highlights: Day Four

Owning It with Jenny Kee

Jenny Kee, a mascot for all that Australian fashion stands for. 
Her iconic prints virtually shaped our design lansdcape in the 60's and her personal style made it ok (Nee Fabulous) to pair red frames with a red lip.

It was with much anticipation that she showed today in the box, assisted by good friends Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett of Romance Was Born, it has been the first solo showing by Kee since 1981 and boy does she still have it.

We've seen a pletrhora of pattern and colour all week, but while others have tried to follow international suit,  Kee reinstates herself as a uniquely Australian designer unmoved by international trends but instead imersing herself in other cultures and giving it a distinctly Australian twist.

Nestled in amongst gum branches and warratahs (Kee's Signature) from her own garden, Models were layered in sumptuous print, some with parasols draped in silks, others with etherial head wraps, all cohesive and downright explosive with colour and pattern.  In the words of Glynis Trail-Nash, Australiana is not a dirty word in the capable hands of Jenny Kee.

Christopher Esber

Esber keeps moving from strength to strength in this battlefield that is Australian fashion.
Set against a number of concertina mirror partitions,  models were reflected in army like proportions, as powerful women sheathed in simple yet couture like garments from the hand of Christopher Esber.
In his almost trademark palette of black, white and cerulean, the collection featured crisp, seam detailed shirting options and pencil skirts with invisi-sheer panelling. simple half sleeve dresses with a higher boat neckline rounded out the collection in a number of textural fabrics. Looks were completed with a clean modern face, bronzed lids and slicked back hair that was woven into a mind bending 10 section plait.

The Esber Army is increasing its forces as he debuted a number of mens looks as well, but it was clear that the Womens looks were doing all the battle. 
In a week that has littered with other designers blatanatly following international trends, it is refreshing to see a young designer fighting back with an independent point of view.
Victory to you Esber.

We are Handsome

Swimwear that is just a bit fun.... and a bit chic.... born from the minds of Indhra Chagoury and Jeremy Jules Somers, their aim is to highlight the beautiful things in life and this season has pivoted around an urban jungle vibe complete with its own take on a zebra crossing catwalk.

Ombre city prints in sepia tones mixed with crisp animals prints straight from your encyclopedia Brittanica. The pieces were fun, easy and perfectly suited to a laid back Australian summer.

And dont look now.... but I think that eagle is wearing a turban....

Article of the day:

http://www.thevine.com.au/fashion/afw-2012/the-dos-and-donts-of-mbfwa---a-survival-guide-to-fashions-week-of-weeks-by-nadine-von-cohen/




Tweets of the day:

@MBFWA
Admit was close to tears #ChristopherEsber As @pattyhuntington said to me THE moment of fashion week. I concur #MBFWA

@MBFWA
I believe @KirstieClements actually let out a whoop after #ChristopherEsber That sums up what all are feeling #MBFWA

@Ilona_hamer
Christopher Esber just saved #MBFW. What a beautiful, fresh, individual and modern collection.

@GlynisTN
Australiana is not a dirty word in #JennyKees capable hands. #mbfwa twitpic.com/9gl4x1

@KirstieClements
Jenny Kee installation.  For all the Mary Kantranzou knock offs we've seen this week, this is how you do print pic.twitter.com/Wosf0j2L

@DamienWoolnough
Overheard #MBFWA staff member confessing to wearing top-to-toe Zara. ...This is the real challenge for Oz fashion.

@Susiebubble
I want Jenny Kee to be my spiritual grandmother...

Highlights: Day Three

McCall Me, on the line, You can McCall me, McCall me, anytime

Wednesday. Hump day.  It is always going to take a lot to get the Fash pack up and alert in the middle of the longest week of your life, but Alice McCall was a refreshing alarm clock for wearied editrixes and bloggers alike ( I swear to god its almost one for one these days) granted Lisa Ho was up first... but how many miss that first show from sheer tardiness?
Taking her main inspiration from Hungarian embroidery and lace and a few cues from the femininity of art nouveau architecture, McCall presented a quietly proud collection that celebrated colour, pattern and simplicity. Styled by Meg Gray and featuring heidi style hair,  there was the right balance of craft work vs modernity to make this collection truly inspiring and uplifting.  Sartorial Prozac.

Mirror Mirror on the wall.... Bitch stole my look and now she will fall

who knew blue floral would be a thing?

Bec & Bridge

 

Sara Phillips

What do you see?

Ive booked a solid week with the Psych. A Psych retreat if you will.
Fashion weeks are taxing to say the least but Its only half way through and am starting to see double everywhere I go. I get a temperature in the White Box, my deadlines are ever looming and the blots...oh the blots...  Rorschach Ink blots everywhere I turn... what does it all mean? Am I having my black swan moment? am I to descend into beautifully choreographed madness?  (sidebar: If I have in fact lost it, please let me do myself in wearing a Rodarte inspired Tutu)

No.  I'm quite sane, just seeing double. The old Rorschach ink blot caper.

Alice McCall

Bec & Bridge

Sara Phillips

By Johnny

Tweets of the day

@Damienwoolnough
Stuck in the sweat box for Sara Phillips #MBFWA
@ladymelbourne
I imagine 'The Box' at #MBFWA is based on Guantanamo Bay: Hot, dark and full of eccentrics

@maisondemason 
Overheard at #MBFWA "I really feel uncomfortable when I cant see Trail-Nash"

@GlynisTN
Thank goodness there are stylists at hand.  My pussy bow was looking a little lacklustre Thanks @howardsteeves #mbfwa

@Bryanboy
Blogger went livid, threw a fit and screamed at socialite "I don't want to introduce you to designer. He's my friend! I worked for this.

Highlights: Day Two

I'm a lover not a fighter

If day one was all about superheroes and fighters, day two was about the lovers, tis a season of balance after all.
Zimmerman, the eternally loved and lovers, presented a collection of  homespun sophisticates. Cloth dolls complete with rag curls, dressed in scraps of this and that with over sized guipure lace and watermarked florals mixed with luxe sporty layers and laser cutting. Make sense? no? it really does when the Zimmerman girls do it.
Relax, be a lover not a fighter.

Hello Butter, we meet again

Butter.  Your soft creamy glow makes me want to faceplant you.  Bathe in your smothering, overwhelming, salty goodness... Everything you touch you turn to delicious edible gold.   Then I hear my mother in the back of my head  'a moment on the lips, a lifetime on the hips...'  I am quite sure she sang that to me as a lullaby when I was in the womb.... I did come out premature and dangerously thin after all. Dont worry, I survived.

Snapping out of you hypnotic trance, I am going to take control of the situation and do as many of this seasons designers have done and simply adorn the colour.  The only thing that will be on these hips in future is a well cut frock or perhaps a 7/8th pant.

Gary Bigeni

Gail Sorronda

Talulah

Maticevski

Miss Unkon

Romance Was Born

White Box

Enter the new way to show collections.  White Box. 

What you do is get a white box, with some white boxes in in, add some props, sounds and garnish with a collection of models in your clothes standing on said white boxes. 

I give you, White Box. 

But are models really modelling when they arent walking?  Now thats thought provoking.

Pierrot Box at Gail Sorronda

Disco Box at Dylan Cooper

Brooding Box at Flowers for a Vagabond

Tramp Box at Jayson Brunsden









Tweet of the day

@glynisTN- Congratulations #JaysonBrunsden & @AZBcreative! Breathing life into the Box #mbfwa

Highlights: Day One

Marvellous Marvel at Romance Was Born

Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett never fail to deliver.  Opening the week with sirens and alarms, their Marvel inspired collection clashed graphic prints together with vibrant red hair and an applied brow bringing dreams of many a young boy from page to life. 
When working within the parameters of  comic book heroes, one has the potential to stray from fashion into costume (I've seen one to many superhero cape for my liking... Hell I've even worn a few)  But Sales and Plunkett took it to a new level creating Givenchy/Versace-esque prints that have never made comics look so chic.

Bam, POW, Shazaam.  Romance Was Born have opened the week and set the bar high.

International delegates refused entry to Gail Sorronda

Tim Blanks and style bloggers Bryanboy and Susie Bubble were refused entry to Gail Sorronda's 'Oh My Goth' collection being told that they had 'just missed media'.   Me thinks that door bitches need to be trained better on who and who not to let into shows... Bingle vs Blanks.... I know who I would back....
On another note, Sorronda highlighted her signature black and whites with a handful of allsort brights with raggedy Anne face.  Layered babydolls, trapeze blouses and polka dot pants, it was a sophisticated day at the cirque.

Gypsies, Tramps and Red Carpet

I was cursed by a gypsy once.  Her name was Veruschka and she said I would never be able to wear a clog. Usually that wouldn't bother me but it was the Spring summer of 2010 and Chanel had just released a plethora of clogs... That bitch, I would never trust a gypsy again.... turns out nobody looks good in a clog so perhaps she was on to something.

Kirrily Johnston knew this,  that's why she filled her runway with luxe village gypsies in a palette of dusted Florals, butter, fuscia, chartreuse and her signature black, nude and white.  Dreamy draping and weightless fabrics gave an effortless look that were garnished with statement pendants and earrings. 

Moral of the story, dress like a gypsy.

Ksubi

Double, triple and quadruple denim.... I'm yet to believe this can work. Even if Christine Centenera is styling the show.  Withholding judgement on this one. 

Tweet of the day

@damienwoolnough  Ksubi. I get that you're totes edgy.  I even like double denim. But don't make me sit on a concrete floor. Your show gave me piles.#MBFWA