Every season there are those fabulous moments that redefine or reinvigorate the way we see fashion. It can be as sweeping as a fashion movement or as subtle as a new shape or just plain beautiful. They are the moments that the hard to impress fashion critics use as a sounding board of quality and talk about in comparison.
An average collection is forgotten in moments, a great collection is already in your wardrobe.
Alexander McQueen: Platos Atlantis/ Armadillo shoe
Ok Ok...clearly it is no secret I love this man, but in retrospect his collections are all at once completely different but at the same time an elaborate interconnected story.
After his previous collection 'Horn of Plenty' where he made comment on the fashion climate with classic Dior and Chanel shapes (and those lips...who could forget those lips!) Springs 2010 Plato's Atlantis was, quite literally an evolution. Like godesses from the sea, models had evolved into mesmerizing garments of reptilian skin. It was like the fashion equivalent of Jurassic Park, a genetic hybrid of couture shapes and reptillian creatures. And my god....the shoes.... part hoof, part armadillo, part skyscraper, these 12 inch creatures were quite a new sight in terms of footwear. Chills....just chills when I saw this...
Dion Lee: Debut Collection
Having previously seen Dion Lee's graduate collection at Brisbane fashion festival during the student design award (he won of course) I was quite excited to see what this boy would do next, I mean, there we were on a Tuesday morning in a carpark in Kings Cross after a relatively slow start to the week. That was sure about to change. It was clear by the audience (all the big editors and Godfrey Deeney of FWD... lets face it....they dont just go to anyones show...) That this was sure to be the start of something big.
Romance Was Born: Doilies and Pearls, Oysters and Shells S/S09
Again...what a fabulous year to be at RAFW... Set at the Sydney Theatre company pier, we entered a tableu vivant of seaside proportions. Once guests were seated on mismatched chairs, this highly anticipated show began and models entered in a couture like treatment, pausing to hunch shoulders or caress their faces (I do love a couture procession..) This show was nothing short of magical. Fifties seaside kitsch complete with an afghan cocktail frock, a lobster dress and iced VoVo doyenne.
It is hard to explain what a RWB show is like, except that they are highly emotional and the people viewing reciprocate the love that is shown on the runway.
Christian Dior: Madame Butterfly, Spring 2007 Couture
Who else but John Galliano (Court date set for June 22...could be facing 6 months in prison and a fine of 22 500 euros...but lets reminisce of happier times) could take Madame Butterfly and turn it into a poetically and visually stunning couture show, quite possibly, one of his best.
Inspired by the love affair between Cio-Cio San and Pinkerton, origami folding techniques, kimono's, Obi's and Geisha styling were employed to bring this collection to the peak of perfection. Not to mention the delicate yet over sized staging including all white cherry blossoms and Dior grey parlour chairs over which models would wistfully drape themselves.
This collection was a dual representation of the House of Dior workmanship and what John Galliano do best. It is hopeful, that this collection, along with many others, could be shown in a retrospective. Can we forgive and forget? Or can the work not be separated from the man? It would be a crime for these artworks to be confined to archives...only time will tell.
Christian Lacroix- Final Collection
After 20 years of collections, it all came down to 24 Couture Looks.
In a dark palette of black and navy, models walked in fashion's wake to a designer who was financially forced to take his final bow far too soon
His final couture collection showed us the bones of Lacroix as a designer, impecable mastery in terms of drape and tailoring and esquisite true couture detail with beadwork and embroidery.
Privately financed by himself, Lacroix worked alongside his twelve remaining seamstresses, many of whom gave their hours for free, fiercly loyal to the designer. Hair and make-up worked pro-bono while top models (who I believe by law have to recieve payment) were paid 50 Euro for their services.
Many a stern fashion face was seen to crack as the designer took his final walk of the runway... truly a creative loss.
